Why don't my headlight washers work?

 Advanced German engineering, one has to turn their headlights on first!

Stuff I've added to my 993

 OK here are the mods I have done to my 993 many involve how-tos covered in the pages of this BLOG. Not much really just normal stuff to enhance driving enjoyment...

• Replaced the suspension with an H&R Coilover kit because the previously installed lowering springs and struts had worn out-
• Added an electronic circuit board that automatically locks the doors 7 seconds after the ignition is turned to the accessory position or beyond. a much-valued convenience;
• Added an electronic door chime to alert if headlights or the turn signal is left on. The OE chime doesn't alert to turn signals left on and can run the battery down over night;
• Updated the electronic key fob function with an Immo-Block adapter, no more double-tapping the fob to get the car to start!
• Added an ignition keyway light, works great finding the keyway at night;
• Added a dashcam and power wire, I'm over 60 now so actuarial review says it's going to be the other guy's fault and he will lie about it;
• Added a 40 Amp circuit to the battery terminal that runs under the passenger seat to power an aftermarket power amp and later added accessories;
• Added an inside Frunk hood protective liner with an LED frunk lamp, the original still works but doesn't provide much illumination. The liner saves the hood from damage impacts from within the frunk when closing in on a full load of stuff;
• Added a 12 volt switched accessory socket to the dash next to the unswitched original cigarette lighter outlet, provide a place for a voltmeter to plug in, something missing on our cars;
• Add 2 two outlet USB socket on the side of the center console to power the dashcam in the front and one planned for the rear, see the bottom of this page;
• Added body-color-matched gauge rings, shifter boot, ignition keyway cover, and door card wedges to the all-black interior, help to orient one's self in a black interior, less filling a looks great!
• Added glass bead Yellow reflector striped tape to the door's rear-facing jamb for parking safety at night;
• Added heat to the seats, sweet and easy;
• Replaced the radio head, power amp and with modern ones;
• Added a low-frequency DSP to the power amp for the door speakers for subwoofer like enhancement;
• Replaced all 4 speakers with improved aftermarket ones;
• Upgraded the high mounted stop light with LEDs that strobe when braking;
• Added marker and stop light bulbs to the rear center reflector;
• Updated and relocated the oil cooler & AC Condenser low-speed resistors;
• Redirected the clutch breather tube vent so it does not vent to the intake air box. Done to potentially extend the service life of the engine;
• Added a body color-coordinated keyless entry fob housing;
• Added an emergency engine lid release cable behind the driver side rear tail light;
• Disabled by tieing off the brake pad wear indicators;
• Upgraded brake caliper flex lines to braided lines to improve brake feel;
• Removed drains from the bottom of the frunk and sealed them off with metal duct tape;
• Added finished edge molding to engine compartment sound insulation blanket;
• Added grounding protection shield to rear bumper cover bottom edge;
• Upgraded the original rubber brake lines with Braded ones, a big brake feel improvement.

Saved all OE components switched out to be delivered to the next owner with the car, probably by my son as I plan to be dead when that happens!

• This will take you to a list of service and repair items I have done to my 993

Andy

Tags:

#993Technical

#993TechnicalSupport

#993Support

#Porsche993Help

#Porsche993Technical

#PorscheService

#PorscheRepair

#993Service

#993Repair

#993Parts

#ServicePorsche

#RepairPorsche

#Service993

#Repair993

#993 Ugrade 

Items I have serviced on my 993

A 993 is a very well made vehicle but over 26+ years of being on the road what may seem like a lot of stuff needed attention. Here is a list of the stuff I have had to service over the years. It also includes a few things I have not serviced but are common service & repair items on a 993.

Servicing the Dual Distributor - Avoiding engine damage 

Restoring the operation of the cabin air recirculation button -  maximum cool in the Summer 

Lighting \Alarm\Immobalizer Problems - Annoying fob & alarm issues

Surface corrosion and paint gouges - Keeping things lookin' nice

Corrosion around the windshield and rear window -Avoiding an expensive body shop fix

Restoring the working distance of the Remote Entry Fobs - Fixing an annoying issue

Repairing the Oil Cooler and AC Condenser low-speed fan -- Keeping things cool in hot weather

Heating Ventilating Air Conditioning (HVAC) issues  - Keeping things warm and cool when they should

Squeaks & Rattles - fixing annoying sounds in an otherwise quiet body

The Air Bag Light (SRS) & Seat Belt warning lights  - Get the light to go out

Turn signal flashing too fast - Yup, something is not right

Non-Functional Window Switches - A kitchen table fix

Horn Honking Without Reason. - Very annoying especially in the rain

Car won't start, the DME Relay - The number one reason a 993 won't start

Oxygen Sensors & Engine Management - How they should work

Ignition Key & Lock - Fix it, don't replace it

Electrical Gremlins & Sensors - Annoying problems

Check Engine Light - Emission Control System  - Yes why we have OBDCII

Insidious Poor Running or Power Robbing issues - Stuff to make your 993 run right!

The Odometer a Known Issue - Suddenly not working you say?

Brakes & Rotors - Yes the 993 has them

Noisy Fuel Pump - A simple and inexpensive fix

Ignition Issues & Misfires - Very annoying

Hydraulic Lifter Noises - Nasty noises at start-up?

Manual Transmission - Knowing when to service this

Clutch Issues - A once or twice in the life of the car issue

Door seal replacement - An inexpensive fix

Door popping sound - check strap failure  -  Fix it before it becomes expensive to fix

Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning, known issues - Yup it's complicated

Suspension & Steering - Part of why we love these cars

High Mounted Stoplight bulbs out - Does it look like it has lost some teeth?

Body & Paintwork repairs - What you really need to know before going to the body shop

Leather edge of hardback seats coming  lose  -- An easy fix

HVAC Issues

Batteries & Charging

Ride & Suspension

Alarm & Lamp; Ignition Immobilizer Gremlins

Dual-Mass & Lightweight Flywheels poor running and...

Mass Air Flow Sensor MAF OBDC code & poor running

Remote Entry Key Fob Programming 

Replacing the rear wheel arch protective  film

Replacing worn seat upholstery

Fixing up/down window switches

High mounted Cyclops light wire fix

The airbag warning light

Replacing the Steering Rack 

This will take you to a list of FUN stuff I added to my 993!

Tags:

#993Technical

#993TechnicalSupport

#993Support

#Porsche993Help

#Porsche993Technical

#PorscheService

#PorscheRepair

#993Service

#993Repair

#993Parts

#ServicePorsche

#RepairPorsche

#Service993

#Repair993

#993 Ugrade 

Testing & Removing and Reinstalling the Dual Distributor for Servicing

 Ignition Distributor & Distributor Belt Testing & Servicing

---

The 993 has two spark plugs per cylinder driven by a pair of Ignition Distributors and high voltage coils. All these components are over 25 years old and can be the source of a Check Engin Light or in the case of a broken distributor belt can result in engine damage. 

One distributor is directly gear-driven off the engine the other is belt-driven off the gear-driven one. The belt becomes brittle with age and should be replaced every 60K to 80K miles. 

If the belt is broken it can cause an out-of-time spark that can damage the engine. It doesn't always throw an OBD Code or a check engine light (CEL) as a warning. For this reason any time, there is a change in the smoothness of the engine's running, a misfire CEL,  an apparent backfire or at least at the beginning of every driving season the belt should be checked. 

If the belt is found to be broken on your car and you intend to take it to the shop for repair unplug the left-hand distributor cap's center wire before driving the car to avoid engine damage from an out-of-time spark.

Testing the ignition system & distributor belt for spark:

• With the engine off and the key out of the ignition unplugging the directly attached distributor's center wire, and see if the engine runs. The directly attached distributor is the one on the right closer to the engine. If the engine starts and runs at all the belt is intact and the high voltage system related to the belt-driven distributor is working. 

• With the engine off and the key out of the ignition reattach the center wire and pull the center wire on the belt-driven distributor on the left, furthest away from the engine, and see if the engine starts and runs on the directly driven distributor alone. If it does one knows this leg of the high voltage ignition system is also functioning. 

If the car won't start with the center wire on the right-hand distributor detached the distributor belt is most likely broken. Verify this by removing the key from the ignition and removing the left-hand distributor cap and see if the rotor can be rotated with gentle hand force. If it moves at all the belt is broken. 

The belt can break from becoming brittle with age or exposure to ozone trapped inside the distributor housing or some of the bearings in the distributor failing and putting too much force on the belt or both. 

Some like to replace the belt in the distributor on a Do-It-Yourself basis. For me, the problem with this approach is a distributor on a car with over 80K miles on it probably needs some additional parts such as a specialized bushing, bearing, or washer. Identifying much less sourcing these parts once the distributor is out of the car and on the bench can present challenges, one being one's 993 is now inoperative until one can find the part(s) they need.

In any event, the distributor needs to be pulled and sent out to have the belt and any other failed mechanical components replaced. Proven sources of repair are listed on this page.

Removing the distributor for servicing:

Below is how to remove and reinstall the dual distributor preserving its correct rotational position and in doing so also preserving the engine ignition timing when sending one's distributor out for service. 

Read the below instructions carefully in their entirety before attempting this procedure.

• Chock the wheels of the car, apply the hand brake, and put the transmission in neutral. The car should not be moved until the refreshed distributor is reinstalled. This is to avoid the unintended rotation of the engine between when the distributor is removed and when it is reinstalled.

• Remove the center coil distributor wires on each distributor cap and tie the caps with the spark plug wires attached clear of the work area. 

• Remove the lower duct from the heater blower and the upper duct part that vents out of the engine compartment grill leaving the remaining duct that attaches to the blower in place. 

• Take a strait-down picture of the directly attached distributor on the right (closest to the engine) with its cap removed and its rotor in place to document the rotor's rotational position. 

  

  Rotor Installed Position
  
  

• Use care to make sure your camera's lens is exactly centered over the rotor so no off-axis picture distortion of the rotor's position is recorded in the picture. See the picture to the right.

• Remove the Distributor's hold-down nut that locks the distributor to the case at the base of the directly driven distributor.

• Then use a crowbar to pop the distributor loose without removing it. To do this the crowbar's claw is positioned

  

  Crowbar Position
  in Red

  on the underside of the right-hand distributor body next to its center shaft and the crowbar's elbow positioned as a fulcrum on the engine case below the distributor. The picture to the right showing the crowbar position is with the distributor cap on. In the actual procedure, the distributor cap has previously been removed.

• With the hold-down removed the distributor is only held in place by its O-Ring seal's resistance and should pop loose from the engine case with very little force. If you are using more than very little force, stop what you are doing as something is not right. Once the seal breaks loose do not remove the distributor just yet.

• Take a 2nd picture as above after slightly lifting the distributor just to the point where its drive gear inside the engine case disengages while not completely removing the distributor. As the distributor slides off its gear engagement the rotor's position will move slightly. With careful observation, one can see the rotor move slightly as they lift. If it stops moving while lifting the gear is fully disengaged.

  

  Rotor disengaged
  
  

• When reinstalling the serviced distributor use: 
• The 2nd picture taken to preposition the rotor before reinserting the serviced distributor into the engine case and; 
• The 1st picture taken is used to validate the rotor's correct final position once the distributor is fully seated.

• By doing the above procedure one will avoid the top-dead-center alignment shenanigans by simply reinstalling the distributor back in the exact rotational position that it came out with.

• Use some hose wrapped in electrical tape to protect the dual distributor's exposed drive gear during shipment to the rebuilder. Also, package the entire assembly tightly in its shipping box as it has considerable mass and otherwise it may slide around in the box damaging it.

• Once removed the distributor can be sent out for servicing. It seems the availability of parts and other issues have made getting a properly executed servicing a challenge for some. One source of rebuilding that has proven to be reliable: 
• Mark Cohen at markc123@bellsouth.net, phone:770.365.1601

An interesting anecdote from Mark Cohen who services these is he finds many times when he is asked to replace a belt or rebuild a distributor and once opened up it becomes clear that he is addressing a previously botched rebuild by others.

• Once serviced reinstalling is the reverse of the removal process using the earlier taken photographs to make sure the distributor's rotor is returned to the same rotational position as when it was removed.

The gear that engages with the engine at the bottom of the distributor shaft has rather widely spaced teeth.  So when reinserting the distributor the incremental rotational position of the fully seated rotor is large as well. For this reason, it will be very clear if the proper position is achieved when the distributor is fully seated upon reinstallation. If it is inserted one tooth clockwise or counterclockwise in error it will be visually apparent and can be pulled out and reinserted again until the rotor position matches the pictures take before it was originally removed.

.

Distributor with its gear wrapped

If you found this page informative return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993 related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you some time, aggravation or even some coin consider a donation through the button on the top left margin of this page.

#ignition #timing #distributor #dual #bosch

Safety Update - adding automatic door locking to your 993 - a really convenient addition!

Since the 993 already has electric door locks adding a timer that locks the doors a few seconds after the ignition key is turned to the accessory position is an easy DIY project. This is a significant convenience and a safety feature. One of the best additions I have ever done to my car!

Disclaimer: The content of this page, relates specifically to the Porsche 993 (911 1995 to1998) The author here is not a professional automotive technician and some of the procedures described on this page may not be the best to use in all situations. Though the author strives to provide completely accurate and appropriate information and attempts to keep it up to date, in some cases, some of the information you find on this page may be outdated or in error therefore, please feel free to use the information on this page at your own risk.

Parts needed:

• Altronix 6062 Multi-Purpose Timer
• A length of  red automotive 18 to 16 Gauge primary wire; 
• A length of  black automotive 18 to 16 Gauge primary wire; 
• A length of  an alternate color automotive 18 to 16 Gauge primary wire;
• A box to contain the timer circuit board, I used a plastic soapbox;
• An SPST switch with pigtail wires attached.

  

  Basic SPST 
  Switch on a wire pigtail

  
  
  
  

Supplies needed:

• Soldering Iron and thin gauge rosin-core electrical solder
• Scotch-Lock splice terminals (alternative to soldering)
• 3M  Type 88 or 33 electrical tape
• A small amount of open-cell foam padding

Procedure Steps:

• Carefully read all the steps in the below procedure before beginning;
• Set the 4 switch settings on the timer's circuit board to the ON position;

• The jumper 2 labeled "J2" is to be cut, disconnected, on the timer's circuit board;

• Use a length of Black primary wire to attach the timer's terminal marked as negative (-) to a chassis ground or any ground wire such as the one leading to the radio. Ground wires are usually solid brown in color on a 993;



Circuit Board Terminals


• Use a length of Red primary wire to attach the Timer's terminal marked as positive (+) to a switched power circuit. This can be attached to the ignition switch accessory position pin or the switched power wire leading to the radio. If one has added a switched power outlet to their dash it can be attached to that circuit as well;
• Install a toggle switch inline along the red wire above used to disable the automatic door locking function. This is needed when going through the program steps to mate new key fobs to the car.
• Use a length of the alternate color primary wire to attach the timer's terminal marked as normally open (NO) to one side of the central locking rocker switch in the center console;
• Use a length of the alternate color primary wire to attach the Timer's terminal marked as the common connection (C) to the other side of the central locking rocker switch in the center console;
• Test the timer with the ignition key and adjust the time of the delay using the thumb wheel on the timer's circuit board. Set it so the doors lock in a little less than a 10-second delay from turning the key to the accessory position. Do not make it any longer or under certain conditions, one may inadvertently lock themselves out of their car.
• Encase the timer in the plastic box using some foam as padding so it doesn't abrade against the inside of the box from vibration over time and to avoid rattling around in the box
• Cut a slot in one end of the box so the wires have a path to the outside and add a little electrical tape over the wires where they contact the slot so they are not damaged over time.
• Tuck the box and the earlier added disable switch in a convenient place under the dash.
• Make a note in the Owner's Manual of the need to use the disabling switch installed in this procedure when mating keyfobs to the alarm system.
• This modification is IMMO BLOCK compatible.
• Also, consider adding a headlights' left-on warning buzzer to avoid running your battery down when parking and inadvertently leaving your headlights on.

Great companion additions to a 993/964 are:

• Added headlight left on warning  buzzer and;
• IMMO BLOCK eliminates the need for the fob button double-tap to disable the Immobilizer system.
• Window control with key out of the ignition

If you found this page informative return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993-related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you some time aggravation or even a little coin consider a donation through the button on the top left margin of this page.

#alarm #door #locks 

Cable and other tie-down identification for the the more fastidious among us.

 My 993 is a daily driver and is well cared for as I need it to be reliable and problem-free. Others who view their 993 as a collectible are a wee bit more fastidious than I.  Places I use a tie-wrap to replace an original tie-down some folks prefer replacing the failed or missing one with an identical part to keep things original. Below is a picture with part number labels for may of the most common cable and hose tie-downs for those so inclined.

#cable # wiring # harness # clips #tie-downs #tie #tye #clips # clips #wire #line #hose  #electrical

 

Adding an emergency engine lid release cable to your 993

It is interesting that the 993 Carrera comes with an emergency Frunk cable release located behind the driver side wheel well liner. It doesn't come with one for the engine compartment. 

I have read horror stories about the rare occurrence when the engine lid release cable fails. If you have a Carrera with the regular moving spoiler, I understand, one can with, a little effort fish a  wire hook through the spoiler, and release the lid latch. To make releasing the latch easy an emergency release cable can be added.  

If your car has a fixed-wing, for example, the Aero factory wing or a Turbo wing fishing a wire through the wing's grill to release the latch is not going to happen and you are stuck. 

Here is how to easily add an emergency release cable to your 993 if not already present. 

• Used a length of solid core steel galvanized machine or picture hanging wire to create an emergency latch pull cable;
• Remove the left had rear turn/stop light fixture (on left-hand drive cars) 
• From inside the engine compartment, drill a small hole behind the driver side turn/stop light fixture and use a little touch-up paint to protect the raw metal where you drilled. 
• Pick a spot to drill the hole so a pull cable threaded through it leading to the latch is:
•  Unobstructed and; 
• In nearly as strait a line to the rear edge of the engine compartment leading to the latch as possible. This is so the release works smoothly when pulling the cable.

•  Fish the wire through the hole behind and slightly above where the stop/turn light fixture is mounted; 
• Thread the wire along the rear edge of the engine compartment and through the extra hole in the latch mechanism release lever and; 
• Tie a small machine nut on the end of the wire as a slip-stop versus directly attaching it to the lever. 
• In this way when using the regular latch release cable the added cable doesn't flex or bind it just slips through the lever's hole. But when one pulls on the added cable the nut acts as a cable stop.
• Coil up an extra length of wire behind the lamp housing and reinstall the turn/stop fixture. 

Takes all of ten minutes to do.

Andy

Resolving Interior Lighting \ Alarm\ Immobilizer Problems or Faults

 In a 993 the interior dome lights, the glove box light, the frunk light, and their fixtures and switches are all related to the Alarm and Immobilizer so any bad behavior of any of these components can result in:

• The LEDs on the door sills flash in couplets indicating an Alarm/Immobilizer fault;
• The flashing of the fob light in the clock indicates an immobilize fault;
• The interior cabin dome and frunk light do not go out when the doors and frunk are closed and locked with the fob;
• Additionally, the glove box and frunk stop illuminating when they should;
• The Engine compartment light stays illuminated or will not illuminate;
• The battery is discharged due to a parasitic load due to one of the above reasons.
• If you are only experiencing the inability to program fobs and all other aspects of the interior lighting and immobilizer/alarm are functioning properly look to the bottom of this page for things that will interfere with completing the programming process.

99% of the time any of the above faults can be sorted out by replacing a bulb or fuse or cleaning a lamp socket or switch. Here is a sequence of events to sort out such issues before bringing one's car to a professional for resolution.

Before beginning the below testing procedure remove any LED bulbs and replace them with the originally specified incandescent bulbs used in the interior of the car, the glove box, the frunk, the engine compartment, and the related warning lamps in the clock. 

Also, since we are not the engineers who originally designed these systems the below procedure steps and sequencing is based on making assumptions about the operation of the systems involved from our and others' observations clearing issues and some of these assumptions may be in error.

• Checking the engine compartment lamp function (alarm/immobilizer related):


• If the engine compartment lamp simply won't go out when the latch is closed it can be a stuck lower latch switch from dried grease. Flood the lower latch with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, or other "electronics" cleaner spray while cycling the latch several times using a screwdriver to set the latch and pulling the release lever on the latch to open the latch.  If the issue is resolved lightly grease the capture mechanism with a very small amount of white lithium grease, release the latch and close the engine lid.
• Do not use something called electric motor cleaner as it may attack the plastic parts in the latch switch.
• If the lamp simply won't illuminate first pull the fixture and check the bulb, its fixture, and connection spades;
• Reinstall the lamp housing. It is very easy to short out the lamp housing to the body by removing it or reinstalling it so check its fuse once reinstalled;

• Pull apart the pigtail connection to the switch that is part of the engine lid lower latch and short out the wiring harness plug normally attached to the switch pigtail. If the light goes on the switch may have become stuck from dried grease. Flood the latch with electrical contact
  
  cleaner spray while cycling the latch several times using a screwdriver to set the latch and pulling the release lever on the latch to release it. If the issue is resolved lightly grease the capture mechanism with a very small amount of white lithium grease, release the latch and close the lid;
• Close the engine compartment lid before going to the next step.

• Check the frunk compartment lamp function (alarm/immobilizer related):

• If the lamp simply won't illuminate: 
• First, pull the fixture and check the bulb the fixture, and its connecting spades.
• Reinstall the lamp housing. It is very easy to short out the lamp housing to the body by removing it or reinstalling it so check its fuse once reinstalled;
• Also, its connection spades come loose easily so make sure they are fully seated and don't ground to the underside of the hood sheet metal when the fixture is installed
• Pull apart the pigtail connection to the lower latch switch that is part of the frunk hood lid latch and short out the wiring harness plug normally attached to the switch pigtail. If the light goes on the switch has become stuck from dried grease. Flood the latch with electronic cleaner spray while cycling the latch several times using a screwdriver to set the latch and pulling the release lever on the latch to open the latch.  If the issue is resolved lightly grease the capture mechanism with a very small amount of white lithium grease, release the latch and close the frunk lid.
• If the lamp simply won't go out; 
• Check the lamp fixture's connection spades don't ground to the hood when installed;
• If the frunk light won't go out when closing the hood latch with a screwdriver try unplugging the lower hood latch switch pigtail, 
• If the lamp goes out when the latch pigtail is unplugged the switch in the latch has become stuck from dried grease. Hose out the latch with electronic cleaner spray while cycling the latch several times using a screwdriver to set the latch and pulling the release lever on the latch to open the latch.  If the issue is resolved lightly grease the capture mechanism with a very small amount of white lithium grease, release the latch and close the hood;
• If the light still doesn't go out with the latch pigtail unplugged the problem lies with the dome lamps, the glovebox lamp, their switches, or the controller as they all share an integrated function with the alarm/immobilizer;
• Close the frunk lid before going to the next step in this process.
• Check the glovebox lamp function (alarm/immobilizer related):
• The lamp should illuminate when the glove box is opened and go out just before it is fully closed and latched. If it stays on inspect the plunger switch's function and its installation to see if it is being adequately compressed when the door to the glove box is closed; 
• If not working correctly it will cause a fault;
• If the glovebox lamp won't illuminate check the fuse it shares with the frunk light pull and inspect the bulb and fixture then pull and test the switch by simply shorting it out and see if the lamp illuminates indicating a bad switch;
• Once any issues with the glove box lamp are resolved close the glove box before going to the next steps below.
• Checking the dome lights(NOT alarm/immobilizer related):
  
  
  
• If one of the dome lights illuminates but the other does not check the problem fixture's rocker-lens switch position. It should be in the center dome-light-off when the doors are closed position. 
• If it is, pull and inspect the bulb, fixture, and its connections;
• If neither fixture illuminates pull both fixtures and check the bulbs, the fixtures, and their wiring for a loose or pulled-off connection spade.
• Once both fixtures are reinstalled check the fuse in the frunk fuse box; 
• If both lamps fail to go out when the lamp rocker is in the center position and the key fob is used to lock the doors or the doors are simply closed and the lamps remain illuminated after a short timed period the problem lies elsewhere;
• Checking the door jamb switches (alarm/immobilizer related):
• If the dome lights fail to illuminate open both doors.  If opening a second door causes the dome lights to illuminate the door jam switch on the door that did not cause the dome lamps to turn on alone has a bad or dirty switch or its wiring harness connection has come loose. 
• Rebooting the alarm/immobilizer:
• Disconnect and reconnect the car battery to reset any internal corruption in the controllers.
• Ignition Keyway Switch: 
•  The ignition lock has a switch referred to as "Switch Buzzer Ignition Lock" that senses that the ignition key has been removed and the deadbolt to lock the steering column has been triggered The switch's connection can be seen as the bi-post plug along the shank of the ignition switch steering lock bolt assembly in the picture to the right. The switch may be broken but more likely just stuck or dirty from dried lubricant;
  
  
  
• Try cleaning the switch by flooding the ignition keyway with a spray electronic cleaner using the thin extension tube that comes with the spray can. 
• Then insert and turn the key clockwise past the unlock position then; 
• Turn it counterclockwise and remove the ignition key;
•  Turn the steering wheel slightly if necessary to assist in locking the steering column;  
• Reflooding the keyway and repeating the sequence several times and see if it resolves the issue; 
• Put a square of cardboard over the floor carpet under the keyway to capture any solvent and old lubricant that may drip under the dash during this process;
• Be aware that the ignition lock assembly needs never be replaced as both of its switches can be replaced and a locksmith who works with automotive locks can service its mechanical components avoiding the $1000+ expense of having a new lock purchased from the dealer and keyed to your car.  
• This particular procedure is prompted by others' suggestions that the stuck switch may be the cause of a flashing fob warning lamp in the clock indicating a fault. Once cleaned put a very small amount of light oil on an ignition key and insert and remove it from the keyway a few times to lubricate the lock cylinder pins. Over-lubrication of the lock may cause problems down the road as dust and debris will tend to gum up the lock.

If after working through the above one still has an issue it may be the alarm or ignition immobilizer controllers under the seats. If you have problems with the remotes working with fresh batteries one can consider the fix described on this page.

Here is what the  993 Master  - Tore from Bergvill F/X Electronics suggests on the  topic of a parasitic electrical drain that causes a dead battery when a 993 is left standing and is related to the above topic:
https://www.bergvillfx.com/categories/964993-current-measurement

Continuous flashing Immobilizer light that does not extinguish:.

In addition to the above if you find the immobilizer light in the clock seems to flash continuously as you drive the car and doesn't extinguish after a short period check the state of charge of the car's battery as the Immobilizer doesn't seem to like a weak (low voltage) battery. Some have also suggested detaching and reattaching the car battery may also clear the continuous flashing issue.

#Immobalizer     #alarm #lamp #lamp #fixture #interior #lock #ignition #key #latch #switch #frunk #lid #glove #box  #glovebox #parasitic #electrical #drain

Will stainless steel braided teflon brake hoses improve the brake's feel on my 993?

On my 993 I replaced the original rubber jacketed brake hoses with braided ones.  With this change, I felt a dramatic difference for the better in brake peddle feel. In a 993 with original hoses having seen 26+ years of use braking will typically display a dramatic improvement in pedal feel. Replacing the original aged rubber hoses with OE style rubber ones may exhibit a similar improvement as well although I have not done this.  

The below information was gleaned from StopTech's brake line FAQ document and is largely relevant to any brand of braided brake hoses. Some of its content is colored by a little product promotion as they sell braided lines so read it knowing this, My editorial comments are enclosed in brackets [_].

Why are flexible brake hoses used in the first place?

From the factory, nearly every production passenger car has short, flexible hoses that run from the fixed, hard metal brake tubes to the calipers (or wheel cylinders as the case may be). These flexible hoses are necessary because the wheel ends are free to move relative to the body of the vehicle. Inflexible tubes would not allow for the articulation of the wheel ends without subsequent failure.

What are OEM hoses made from?

Typically, OEM hoses contain a compliant polymeric [plastic] inner hose to transmit brake fluid pressure from the brake tubes to the caliper. While the polymeric tube itself does a good job of withstanding attack from the brake fluid, it must be protected from the outside world and is consequently wrapped (over-molded) with a thick, rubber coating. Hollow fasteners at one or both ends of the hose provide a direct flow path and a leak-free connection system.

So how are Stainless Steel lines different?

Stainless Steel lines (they are actually hoses, but we'll use the common term “lines” from this point forward in this FAQ) are similar to OEM hoses in function but differ greatly in execution. Unlike OEM hoses, SS lines [hoses] incorporate a low-compliance [not easily stretched] Teflon inner hose. In addition, instead of covering the Teflon with over-molded rubber a woven braid of Stainless Steel strands is placed over the hose for protection. As with an OEM hose, the ends are terminated with hollow fasteners to allow for the leak-free passage of brake fluid.

So why is that better than the OEM rubber design?

Stainless Steel lines provide a number of benefits as compared to their OEM rubber over-molded counterparts.

• The SS braid provides superior protection from flying roadway debris. [Rubber hoses have been proven to be perfectly adequate in this regard]
• The SS braid and Teflon hose reduce expansion during pressurization. [an assertion]
• They provide the race car look. [fashion statement]

I understand the protection benefit, but can you explain the reduced expansion benefit?

Any time that an object is subjected to internal pressure, it expands. The amount of expansion will be proportional to the amount of pressure present and the rigidity of the holding structure. In the case of brake hoses, we are subjecting Teflon to internal pressures as high as 3000PSI. Because the Teflon is relatively flexible (which makes it ideal for the job in one regard), it will expand under these conditions. This expansion creates additional fluid volume in the hydraulic circuit which is felt by the driver as a soft or mushy pedal.

Rubber over-molding does little to reduce expansion under pressure [assertion that is plainly not true as rubber brake hoses are commonly used in by virtually all car manufacturers], as rubber is also a relatively flexible material. A woven braid of Stainless Steel, however, can greatly increase the rigidity of the hose under pressure while still allowing adequate flexibility for wheel end movement. In many cases, this reduced expansion can be felt by the driver as a firmer or more responsive brake pedal.

In addition, the reduced compliance will result in a faster transient response of the brake system. In other words, the time from the driver hitting the brake pedal until deceleration is generated will be decreased by a small amount. The benefit will vary based on each individual application, but in general overall deceleration can be attained more quickly, resulting in slightly shorter stopping distances. [ This statement is problematic as the vast majority of transient response is the small travel of the caliper piston cups as they load up against the pads to push them against the rotors]

What impacts will SS lines have on my vehicle's P-T (pressure vs. torque) relationship?

None. Because brake lines and hoses do not affect the torque generated at the wheel end, the P-T relationship remains unchanged when SS lines are installed. Only changes to a vehicle's caliper, rotor, or brake pad coefficient of friction will impact the P-T relationship.

Well then, will SS lines impact my vehicle's P-V (pressure vs. volume) relationship?

Absolutely. Because SS lines are much less compliant than their OEM counterparts, the P-V relationship will be reduced to some degree (less volume will be required at a given pressure). This is exactly the reason that a car equipped with SS lines has a firmer brake pedal.

However, because the P-T relationship remains unchanged with SS lines, the impact to ABS, TCS, and other brake control systems is typically negligible. Our own BBK kit testing indicates that most ABS, TCS, and other brake control systems are robust to the small changes affected by the addition of SS lines. On the other hand, testing at StopTech (and at major OEMs as well) has shown that while decreases in the P-V relationship typically are invisible to SS lines, increases in the P-V relationship are not (as would be found with an inappropriately-sized BBK).

In summary, because SS lines and a properly sized and balanced BBK only serve to reduce the P-V relationship, we have time and time again demonstrated appropriate system integration with these products. Our in-house testing allows us to make this statement for every platform we service.

Will I feel a difference on my car if I install SS lines?

The amount of perceived difference will vary by each car's individual design, age, and usage. Those cars with a significant amount of flexible OEM line or those that have seen years of use and aging will typically display a more dramatic improvement in pedal feel than new cars with shorter lines. [this also suggests just replacing aged rubber lines with the same will exhibit improvement as well]

What is the difference between lines that are “DOT compliant” and “DOT approved”?

The United States Department of Transportation (DOT) has established numerous standards for automotive components and subsystems. The regulation for brake hoses happens to be FMVSS106. In this document, anything and everything pertaining to automotive brake hoses has been laid out in gory detail – at least, those things important to the federal government.

If a manufacturer claims their SS lines are “DOT compliant”, it means that their SS lines have passed all FMVSS106 requirements, and they have submitted the test data to the government for official certification. This does not mean they are acceptable for use on your car, but it does mean they pass the government minimum standards.

Another term you may hear in this context is “DOT approved.” However, the DOT is not in the business of actually approving or disproving compliance – they don't typically run any tests on aftermarket components themselves. Under these circumstances, one can only surmise that these manufacturers are trying to state that their lines are actually “DOT compliant”, but it never hurts to ask before you buy.

So, do I need to use only DOT compliant SS lines on my car?

Not necessarily. The DOT requirements must be met in full for official government approval, so even if a SS line passes every performance test but is labeled with the wrong type of tag (or something equally trivial) it would fail certification. While this might mean something to an auto manufacturer or assembly plant, it is meaningless to the performance enthusiast.

All the DOT compliance means is that the lines have passed a minimum set of government standards which may or may not be important to you. Does this mean that DOT compliant lines are the best for your car? Not necessarily, but the certification should indicate that the manufacturer understands the product and is trying to hold itself to a certain standard.

[The above statement may be speaking to that the DOT specification may have within it specified design or material criteria that are not relevant to the function or durability of a brake hose and that by definition the braided hoses are of different construction and material and so by definition may not meet the DOT specification]. We are also to infer that all aspects of the DOT specification are therefore not relevant to the function/durability or safety of the hose assembly.] 

[In context no domestic manufacturer of brake hoses is going to offer hoses that do not meet the minimum DOT standards for performance, durability, and safety as the risk of failure on a safety-related product such as brake hoses would invite devastating litigation. This is also why one should consider a hose set from a domestic manufacturer who is subject to US product safety regulation and liability law.]

Why do some SS lines have a clear plastic covering?

Under certain conditions, dirt and other abrasive contaminants can find their way between the SS braid and the Teflon inner hose. Over time these contaminants can be ground into the Teflon line to the point that a leak can develop. Naturally, a leak in the brake system is never a good thing.

Some manufacturers have taken the extra step to cover the SS braid with a polymeric coating [plastic] to prevent contaminants from working their way into the Teflon liner. While this coating is not necessary for short-term longevity, hoses without the coating should be inspected and replaced on a more frequent basis.

Why do some SS lines have plastic molded over the end fittings?

Some SS line manufacturers have adopted the practice of molding a semi-rigid polymer over the fittings at either or both ends of the line. These features act as a strain relief for the SS braid where the fitting is secured to the line. In some cases, lines without these features can fail certain dynamic portions of FMVSS106, as the SS braid can wear itself into the Teflon line where it is secured to the end fitting.

Do I need to take any special precautions when installing my SS lines?

In general, no. The most important thing to note is that the routing of the SS line should match either the original stock routing or the instructions included for a new routing (if applicable). Because the SS braid will eventually wear through just about anything (once the protective outer layer is worn away), be sure that there is adequate clearance to all other moving parts under conditions of full wheel travel and full steering.

It should also be mentioned that after installation care should be taken to examine your SS line routing to ensure that the line is not stressed when the wheels are turned to full lock. This is best done with the wheel hanging at full droop to amplify any routing concerns. Of course, the line should never come in direct contact with any part of the tire, but the line should not be pulled radially with respect to the over-molded end fittings either.

The above information was sourced from: 

https://www.carid.com/stoptech/info/stainless-steel-brake-lines-information.html