Appendix “M”
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF): does cleaning work?
My 1996 check engine light lit up. The Durametric software code said, "Mass airflow sensor not working." I called the local Bosch dealer and found out the part costs over $300. This led me to clean the sensor, even though at 80K+ miles, I wasn't sure cleaning it would solve the problem.
I purchased CRC brand Mass Airflow Sensor Spray Cleaner, removed the sensor from the car, and hosed it off with it. On closer inspection, I noticed the sensor element in the slot of the stalk that protrudes into the intake air path had a gray, flat soot coating on both sides. I sprayed CRC cleaner onto swabs and rubbed the element on both sides until the soot came off. This revealed that the sensor is white in color and looks like a circuit board with flat components printed on it.
I purchased CRC brand Mass Airflow Sensor Spray Cleaner, removed the sensor from the car, and hosed it off with it. On closer inspection, I noticed the sensor element in the slot of the stalk that protrudes into the intake air path had a gray, flat soot coating on both sides. I sprayed CRC cleaner onto swabs and rubbed the element on both sides until the soot came off. This revealed that the sensor is white in color and looks like a circuit board with flat components printed on it.
I also sprayed and swab-cleaned another smaller pass-through on the stalk closer to its base where it mounts to its dedicated duct.
I put the sensor back in my car, and the light was out! I ran the codes, and no sensor code was listed.
The key to my success was using swabs to clean the sensor, since the debris coating won't wash off with spraying alone.
There are two methods for removing and reinstalling the sensor for cleaning.
- If you can access the sensor stalk's mounting screws on each side of its electrical connector, use a T20 Torx Security bit (the style with the hole in the center) to remove the two screws holding the sensor stalk to its dedicated duct.
This method avoids removing the air box and detaching the rubber intake duct from the sensor's dedicated duct, making the job quick and easy.
- The alternative is to remove the sensor and its dedicated duct together in one piece. This method involves removing the air filter housing and detaching the sensor's dedicated duct from the intake duct by loosening a hose clamp. The tricky part in this greater disassembly method is in the reinstallation; here is how to do it with a minimum of aggravation:
- First, combine a 7mm socket with a flex joint and a long extension. Tape over the tool’s parts so they do not pull apart easily and the flex joint wants to stay straight
- Pre-position the assembled tool above onto the intake duct's clamp ring tightening nut and leave it in position;
- Then place the MAF sensor in its approximate final installed position, not attached at the duct ends or by the wire. Put the air filter housing in its approximate installed position. Then, while in place, bayonet the sensor's duct housing to the air filter housing.
- Attach the wires to the sensor and the temperature sensor on the air filter housing.
- Next, work the air sensor duct and filter housing as a unit into the intake rubber duct on the left and tighten the 7mm socket you pre-positioned above. During this process, also orient the vent hose leading to the bottom front of the filter housing and position the clamp ring on this hose for later tightening.
- If the 7mm socket has fallen off the clamp ring, go back and reposition it.
- Then align the air filter housing on its rubber mounting stalks located under the housing and tighten the clamp on the vent hose to the housing.
Use a very small amount of wax-like petroleum lubricant on the hoses, ducts, and housings so things slip together easily. I used the absolute minimum, applying it with my finger to avoid contaminating the Sensor element. I didn't use rubber, plastic, or silicone lubricant because I don't know how they affect the sensor.
10/10/2026 I recently read that if the engine will not hold the required RPMs for emission tailpipe testing, the root cause may be a failing or dirty MAF. So, if you encounter this problem, consider cleaning or replacing the MAF. It is not too expensive if you don't buy it in the Porsche-branded box.
If you found this page informative, return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993-related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you time, aggravation, or even some coin, consider donating through the button in the top-left margin of this page.
If you found this page informative, return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993-related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you time, aggravation, or even some coin, consider donating through the button in the top-left margin of this page.


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