Alarming Alarm & Lamp; Ignition Immobilizer Gremlins

Alarm light on the door - Flashes in couplets when the car is locked using the remote key fob or the cabin lights simply don't go out – This is an indication that the car battery is not providing adequate voltage to the system, one of the dome/trunk/engine lid bulbs is out or its switch is bent or broken, the rocker switch on one of the dome light switches is not in the light-out–when-door-open position,  a wire is loose or broken or something is wrong with another component in the door lock/alarm/ignition immobilizer system.

This symptom should be investigated at home before taking it in for service as it can be something as simple as a battery that needs charging or replacement to a bad component in the door-related electronics or a bad alternator/ voltage regulator that results in inadequate battery charging. The quick and simple sequence to diagnose readily repaired items that solve alarm/light/immobilizer problems 99% of the time is to:

•  Clean the battery contacts in the remote entry fob and replace the battery with a fresh one. A low battery in the fob can still illuminate the little red light on the fob when it is unable to transmit reliably and trigger the door lock. Also if the inside of the fob is covered with lint it may be a good idea to flush out the fob's circuit board with spray electronic cleaner before buttoning it up. Be aware that some newly purchased fob batteries are actually old and out-of-date stock. Be sure to check for this to make sure the replacement battery is truly fresh.
• Verify that the car’s battery is fully charged @ 12.5 volts or greater when standing after just being charged with the engine off;
• Disconnect and inspect both the ground and the plus connections on the battery ensuring that their clamping points and conductors are clean and good; 
• While the battery is disconnected remove the light fixture from the Frunk and verify its connectors are firmly in place and the bulb is securely in place. Use care when removing and reinstalling it to not pull one of its connectors off the fixture and that no aspect of the fixture or the connectors is grounding to the frunk lid when reinstalled;
• Reattach the car battery. This also serves to clear and reboot the controller if  the state of its electronics is somehow corrupted from some previous electrical situation;
• With a door just closed, you see the dome lights delay shortly and then extinguish;
• Then open a door then close it and by actuating the electronic fob the  lights go out immediately
• With the doors closed individually open and close the frunk, the engine lid, and the glove box to verify all the lights illuminate and extinguish when the doors/lids are closed. 
• For the frunk & engine lid, it is easiest to use a screwdriver to force the latch into the closed position so you may observe the bulb while the car thinks the lid is secured as the light switch is part of the latch. Be sure to pull the release handles to release the latches before trying to reclose the lids. Close the lids. 
• For the glove box, with the cabin doors closed slowly close the glove box and observe the light goes out just before the latch catches the door.

Here is some more detailed diagnostic procedures concerning the alarm/Immobilizer System

Continuous flashing Immobilizer light that does not extinguish:.

In addition to the above if you find the immobilizer light in the clock seems to flash continuously as you drive the car and doesn't extinguish after a short period check the state of charge of the car's battery as the Immobilizer doesn't seem to like a weak (low voltage) battery. Some have also suggested detaching and reattaching the car battery may also clear the continuous flashing issue.

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