Avoiding a dead battery by adding a Headlight / Turn Signal left on while parking Warning Buzzer

Velleman product is no longer available but there are several functionally identical kits that use the same wiring connection points that can be found by searching the internet  for "Car Headlights Warning Buzzer:

If the above kit proves to be unavailable here is an alternative for the same purpose:
Scott Drake C6AZ-14931-AR - Scott Drake Warning Buzzers

Installation Instructions  C6AZ-14931-AR
I have not tested this kit.

Other alternatives on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284551051413
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285939074751

Like the Velleman kit, any other kit will require only three wires to hook up. One to constant on power, one to the ignition switch, and one to a body ground as discussed below.

 If you would like to add a headlight/turn signal left on a warning buzzer, well more like a bird chirp, to your car it is really quite easy. There are several kits out there to do this. I used the Velleman K3505 kit:

It is a great companion to the IMMO BLOCK and is compatible with it.

Disclaimer: The content of this page, relates specifically to the Porsche 993 (911 1995 to1998) The author here is not a professional automotive technician and some of the procedures described on this page may not be the best to use in all situations. Though the author strives to provide completely accurate and appropriate information and attempts to keep it up to date, in some cases, some of the information you find on this page may be outdated or in error therefore, please feel free to use the information on this page at your own risk.

Wire connections:

• One wire from the connection block on the device marked "GND" goes to the car body (-)
• A second wire is attached to the connection block marked "C" and to continuously positive (+) circuit under the dash such as the one to the ignition switch or the radio or possibly pin 'X"  or the violet wire on the headlight switch, although I have not tested this so a little experimentation may be required. If one has a concern about a parasitic load when the car is parked one could connect the wire from block "C" on the device to the circuit that supplies the dome lights. In this way when the dome lights go out the device is rendered unpowered and inactive. I have not tested this but it should work.
• A third wire is attached to the connection block marked "L" to the headlight switch headlights active pin or the accessory pin depending on the function desired. For example, if the warning is just for the headlights remaining on consider pin 30h or pin 30 the red wire or one of the other pins if you want to be warned you left the turn signal on the opposite side of the car when parked. A little experimentation may be in order to get the function you are looking for. see the diagram above from the 993 wiring documents for insights into how the headlight switch works.  
• Finally, a short length of wire is to be used as a connection strap between the two J2 (jumper #2) connections on the device.

This K3505 headlight indicator module may be set for one or two functions. To indicate that the headlights (or the sidelights) should be switched off after switching off the ignition contact (battery protection). Or to indicate that the headlights should be on once ignition contact is switched on (obligatory in some countries).

Module K3505 Specifications

Continuously repeated alarm tone for lights ON (may be disabled)

Repeated alarm tone for lights OUT

Only 3 wires are required for hook-up

Supply voltage: 12V battery

PCB dimensions: 48 x 57mm / 1.9 x 2.2"

Here are the installation instructions from Vellerman.

Here is a page on adding automatic door locks as well. This modification is also IMMO BLOCK compatible

In my car, I put both the headlight warning module and the automatic door lock module in a plastic soap box under the dash where they have been functioning perfectly for years. I know someday in the distant future some future owner of my car, probably my son, will find the soapbox and wonder what the hell the PO did.

Great companion additions to a 993/964 are:

• Automatic Door Locking;
• IMMO BLOCK eliminates the need for the fob button double-tap to disable the Immobilizer system.
• Window control with key out of the ignition.

If you found this page informative return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993 related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you some time aggravation or even a little coin consider a donation through the button on the top left margin of this page.

Servicing Seats, Doors & the Sunroof

The 993 shop manual is really just an appendment to earlier 911 shop manuals. Looking back here are select sections found only in earlier shop manuals that for the most part apply to the 993:

Sunroof Servicing -- This is a rather complete servicing document.

Door Servicing -- This is a section from the '80s Carrera that is similar in methods of servicing

Seat Servicing  -- This is a limited section on seats describing their function from an earlier 911

If you found this page informative return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993 related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information.

Getting the leather upholstery edge to stay in place on the Hard-Back Factory 993 Sport Seats

As our cars have aged the leather upholstery incrementally shrinks and becomes stiff. Also, the seatback leather has a rubber gripper-edging to hold the leather in place that becomes stiff and brittle losing its ability to grip. These items together seem to cause the seat edge leather to pull free from the seat's plastic hardback.

The immediate and simple fix is to:

--Soak the front and the back of the leather with Lexol leather conditioner to soften the leather and;
--Then buy some extra of the original metal hold-back clips part number 999.507.526.01 and add them to what are already there;

This will reduce the problem but did not eliminate it completely.

Alternatively, 

When I replaced my seat covers the new covers used a round cross-section rubber bead similar to the ones used on window screens that is force-fit into the cuff along the entire periphery of the seatback pinching the leather solidly in place. 

This type of attachment has been on my car for six years and

the leather has not slipped out. 

For this reason, getting some home window screen beading material at a DIY store and working it in up against the existing dried-out rubber gripper-edging will probably do the trick. I used a non-marring plastic scraper-chisel from Harbor freight or Amazon to install the beading on my replacement seat covers.

If you found this page informative return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993 related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you some aggravation, time or even some coin consider a donation through the button on the top left margin of this page.