Done Light Sensor front & center between the sun visors |
Dome Light Sensor internals |
Porsche Dealer Offering |
Sleepers Speedshop Cup Holder https://sleepers-speed-shop.shoplightspeed.com/sleepers-cup-holder.html |
Fast-Ind two cup Offering |
Rennline Adjustable Seat Mounted Cup Holder |
CNC ALUMINUM CUP HOLDER https://www.autoatlanta.com/Cnc-Aluminum-Cup-Holder-For-Porsche-911-1965-98-Parts-PN-RAIR1.html |
magnetic-seat-rail style https://classicmotorshop.com/products/cupholder-porsche-modelle-1980-1996 |
Rinashi cupholder https://i0.wp.com/rinashi.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC08179_optimized_250-e1720027992462.jpg?fit=750%2C420&ssl=1 |
Prestige Parts Center Console Cup Holder https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELCH964.htm |
Please read this
entire document before moving forward with this installation.
All these kits can be configured in various ways so read the instructions with the kit purchased.
For all these kits there are usually only 4 wires connections that need to be made for Remote Entry:
The heated seat circuit uses an easily accessible connection point. Its under-seat connection plug is designed to be disassembled to add a wire soldered to Pin "2". This pin is the hot (+) pin for heated seats internal to the seat's connection plug. When soldering to the pin, completely remove it from the plug housing to avoid melting the plug during soldering.
On my 1996 USA Left-Hand Drive Carrera, this approach uses fuse #25 in the fuse box in the frunk. The fuse is likely already present even if the heated seat option is not installed in your car.
WARNING the above information about fuse location in the fuse box may be different for Right Hand Drive cars and cars delivered to countries other than the USA so for cars delivered outside the US check the label in the fuse box on the specific car.
Ok, I'll chime in here. As we [Classic Retrofit] develop high output alternators, we always pay close attention to the belt temperature and slip. Although we recommend a serpentine for running our units at high loads, I did want to find out what causes the alternator belt on the double belt setup to fail. The short answer is heat and belt speed.
The SAI pump with its vacuum-controlled outlet valve attached by a hose to the lower left. |
Here is how I would proceed to test the SAI system:
This test can only be done once at an initial cold start or again much later from a dead cold engine.
if your OBDC reader features actuations one can turn the pump on manually as well although I am not sure it will also actuate the control solenoid valve for the vacuum controlled valve attached to the pump outlet. For this reason the sound from the hose may be blocked by the valve. If the valve doesn't open with the pumps actuation it will be unclear if the valve or its solonoid is not working or the actuation function on your OBD reader just turns on the pump and doesn't open the valve.
If the code returns you probably will need to have the ports cleaned as described on this page:
If you found this page informative return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993-related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you some aggravation, time or even some coin consider a donation through the button on the top left margin of this page.
A stretched Cap screw |
A Fastener clamp load testing machine |
When rebuilding the front suspension "A" arms on a 993 removing the old bushings can be a real bear of a job. Traditionally a hack saw is used to cut through the bushing's outer tube that is pressed into the "A" arm casting. Then I ran across this approach, using a puller to remove the "A" arm bushings. I wonder why I never came across this before?
Here is the video:
https://www.facebook.com/reel/211727354790398
Dealer kit 000.043.202.52 & Porsche Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). The sparks made under the rotor cap create ozone that attacks the dual distributor's internal rubber belt. The added hose kit moves just enough air through the distributor housing to keep the ozone level down.
In the metal side of the primary distributor is an oblong hole that may or may not have a plastic plug seal in it. To install pry the plug seal out and snap the hose adapter into the hole then attach the hose to it. The other end of the hose attaches to a nipple in the heater ductwork leading from the engine compartment blower.
This modification should be present on the later 993.
The 993 engine has a vast network of hoses and vacuum lines to it. Here is some information that may help one find there way to where to reattach that loose vacuum line or hose.
Folks seem to have the habit of pointing their finger at the most expensive and messy part to replace first as a root cause of a problem with their 993/964. This seems to include the ABS pump.
I have a theory that in the case of what appears to be a non-functioning ABS without any On-Board Diagnostic Codes (OBDC) thrown, a pair of faulty wheel sensors that don't signal may result in what appears to be a pump not functioning. When both are faulty or not in position correctly and are not sending a signal to the controller, perhaps, the controller may think the car is simply not rolling.
Wheel Sensor in Position |
Wheel Sensor Replacement Part |
What led me to this theory is I once had a left front wheel sensor OBD fault code that I ignored for a long while as it didn't cause a check engine light (CEL), make the car unsafe to drive and it subsequently simply disappeared.
Subsequently, the ABS seemed to not kick in so I replaced the relays and checked all the fuses, and from their left things alone as I wasn't prepared to mess with the ABS pump. It got me thinking as to where did the fault go? Then I hit upon the idea that if both sensors were not signaling the ABS controller would think the car is at rest without either wheel turning and so the controller's diagnostics saw no functional problem. I have not gotten around to testing this theory by replacing both of the front wheel sensors but eventually, I will. So, for now, it is just a theory however one that is worth taking into account before contemplating replacing or servicing the very expensive ABS pump.
If one's ABS pump is not working I would test the wheel end sensors to check their position and clean their connections before diving deep into the pump. Also, it seems to me that applying 12 volts to the pump and seeing if it runs may be a good test of the pump. It can also be actuated by some OBD readers however using a reader is also testing any control circuit/relay along with the pump.
Ultimately the 993 pumps can be cleaned or rebuilt if needed.
If you found this page informative return to the main page and bookmark it for future 993-related servicing, repair, and upgrading guidance & information. If it saved you some coin consider a donation through the button on the top left margin of this page.
CCU Part Numbers:
993 659 047 00, 993 659 047 01, 993 659 048 00, 993 659 048 01, 993 659 047 00, 993 659 047 01
993 659 048 00, 993 659 048 01, 993.659.047.00, 993.659.047.01, 993.659.048.00, 993.659.048.01
993 659 047 00, 993 659 047 01, 993 659 048-00, 993 659 048 01
CCU Switch Part Numbers:
944-653-205-00-01C Slide Knob
964-659-146-00-01C Fan Switch Knob
944-653-208-00-01C Temperature Switch Knob
944-653-922-00 A/C Switch
944-653-921-00 Defroster/Recirculation Switch
964-659-148-00 Sensor Fan See the "What is that buzzing behind the dash?" section on this page.